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François Damilano

Name: Damilano

Surname: François

Age: Born in the last century

Nationality/country of origins: France

"The mountain is not superhuman, it is inhuman. She does not repel the man, she does not know."
Jean Proal
Mountain guide, François Damilano shares his passion for altitude with his clients on the peaks of the Alps and the Himalayas. Author of many firsts routes and shameless traveller, he is an expert in ice climbing. Passionate about writing and image, he is the author of numerous books, topo-guides and director of documentary films.
Ice climbing, mountaineering, expeditions: many with many companions. Still and always. Three landmarks in four decades: Ice climbing: "Visa for America" and "The Club". On the mountains: the "Grande Traversée des Cimes": integral crossing of the Mont-Blanc massif by the summits alone and independently. In expedition: the first solitary climb of the emblematic south-west face of the Ama Dablam realized in one day. Recently: Camera on the shoulder: Everest by North Ridge on May 25, 2014. Three pristine peaks in the Limi Mountains (Nepal) in 2018. Recent film-documentary achievements "We will walk on Everest" with Sophie Lavaud, 2015. "K2 - A special day", with Sophie Lavaud, 2017. "Habitus", with Lara Amoros and Jean Annequin, 2018. "The snows of Svanetie", with Jean Annequin, 2018 Next films "The Limi Mountains", co-directed with Ulysse Lefebvre, 2019 "Time does not exist", 2020.

Few words that define you as an athlete: Like many, I imagine mountaineering beyond its sportive dimension. Even if the performance is a structuring and motivating item.

Few words that define you as a person:

Enthusiastic, pugnacious, faithful. Finally, I imagine and I hope!

What are your passions besides skiing / climbing / mountaineering / trail running? Words, people, travels.

Your best and your worst moment on the mountains: The worst: the disappearance of my mountain partner, friend and rope companion Godefroy Perroux.
The best: I always catch myself again and again from this force of emotion that can overwhelm the detour of a path, a glacier, a length, a summit. Like there, at the mouth of this valley between Nepal and Tibet. The stinging look and the rising sobs. This is also why we go up there.

Why do you feel part of the Millet family? For me, Millet is performance, commitment, loyalty.

What does it mean, for you, to Rise Up? "Rise Up"? Much more than a baseline. We feel this notion of rising, the dignity of the human.

Why do you advise people to go out in the mountains to do outdoor activities? Rather than outdoor activities, I prefer to talk about activities into nature. I like more the wild approach. Climbing, mountaineering, skiing, high altitude: these are the best ways to share with the others.