Klettern
03.04.2013

"Homeland" (M7) ,by M.Pellissier & D.Messina

Manu Pellissier and his friend Dimitri Messina have just opened a great new line of dry-tooling in the massif of Belledonne, on the Vallorins rock. Some high difficulties for this route of 400m.

 


HOMELAND
 
" Last winter, accompanied by Sam Beaugey and Julian Roffinetto, we had tried to open a route in the North face of the Vallorins, in the massif of Belledonne, more exactly in the Merlet valley, well known for ski-touring.

 

 

Very dry and mild conditions forced us to give up a hundred meters before the summit.

This year after abundant snow falls, the cold comes back, the moment seems to be good. My partners from last year are not free so I ask Dimitri Messina, a young climber, always up for this kind of adventure, to come with me.

This time, we decide to sleep at the chalet, at the foot of the face, kindly lent by the shepherds, which will avoid 3 hours of approach by night.

In the very first meters of the face, we realize that the conditions are excellent. We climb the two first pitches in solo, going through nice amounts of snow, where last year we were struggling.

 

 

On the wall, we go straight, and we do nice mixed pitches, at a high level (M6). It's a very good dry tooling climb.

The last pitch is the icing on the cake, a overhanging fissure on 15m, and Dim gives the best of him, using his axes.

One more beautiful day spent in mountain, and the satisfaction of having realized this project which I cared very much and having shared it with Dim who knows how to enjoy mountaineering in Maurienne (french mountain area) for its true value. 

There are 4 mixed climbing routes in this face, and they deserve to be done, for the lovers of exotic dry-tooling

 

Manu Pellissier "

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Video of the route : http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=_YtPkhZDyT4